This matters because effective resting:

• Increases local blood flow

• Clears fatigue-inducing metabolites (H⁺, lactate, adenosine)

• Reduces activation of the metaboreflex — the reflex that diverts blood away from the forearms when oxygen becomes scarce

At rest points:

• Breathe rhythmically, slowly, and deeply

• Shake out deliberately

• Stay relaxed long enough for real recovery to occur

In Pranaclimb terms:
Longer, calmer rests allow W′bal (your power battery) to recharge and breathing rate to drop back toward a sustainable zone.

Elite Examples

🧠 Adam Ondra

Ondra distilled his redpoint mindset into one sentence:

“It’s easy: I’m either climbing or relaxing.”

Before sending Silence (9c / 5.15d), Ondra rested for over four minutes at key stances.
During cruxes, he used brief breath holds and forceful exhales to maintain postural stiffness and precision — then fully downshifted his breathing again at rests.

This is applied Pranaclimb physiology:
deep recovery → explosive effort → full reset.

Watch Adam climb from one rest (11.55 -12.12) through a crux to another rest (12.37 - 12.20). Notice how he quickly slows down his breathing before a rest and begins to speed it up before leaving the rest and climbing the crux

🧠 Paige Claassen

After a powerful crux on Dreamcatcher (5.14d), Claassen rested for four minutes before topping out. Her reflection was simple:

“I still have a chance if I just breathe.”

Breath became the bridge between effort and belief — restoring composure as much as oxygen.

🧠 Margo Hayes

Margo Hayes’ ascent of Biographie (5.15a) is a masterclass in tactical recovery.

• Total climbing time: ~16 minutes

• Total resting time: 10+ minutes mid-route

She used rhythmic breathing, visualization, and self-talk (“breathe,” “believe,” “be in the moment”) to guide when to rest and when to commit.

Her annotated route map shows that breath isn’t just recovery — it’s part of performance planning.

Pranaclimb Coaching: How to Train Rest Properly

1. Extend Rest Periods:
Train your ability to rest for 3–5+ minutes at kneebars or low-intensity stances. This allows W′bal replenishment and HRR to return below the threshold.

2. Use Breathing as a Recovery Tool:
At rest: nasal or slow oronasal breathing, combined with arm shaking. This activates parasympathetic recovery.

3. Redpoint Map
Like Margo: map your climb with rest points and breath cues. Add reminders like “recover here,” “slow exhale,” “focus,” or “believe.”

4. Crux Breathing Protocol
Before max effort: 2–3 deep exhales.
During effort: allow grunts and screams to drive exhalation.
Post-crux: resume slow, controlled breathing—minimize breath-holds.

Key Takeaway

Elite climbers don’t rush rests — they respect them.

If you can:

• Stay calm longer

• Slow down your breathing

• Keep it rhythmic

• Briefly close your eyes

• Relax any muscles or tension that can be relaxed

• Recover more fully before committing

You don’t just climb harder —
You climb smarter, longer, and closer to your true limit.

🫁 Train rest like a skill. Train breath like a performance tool.